Tuscany Guide

Early spring

Written by: Johanna Landberg & Arvid Nilsson
Published: April 27, 2026

Arvid, an artist and designer, and his girlfriend Johanna are building a life on their own terms. This is their trip to Southern Tuscany.

A trip shaped by a quiet idea, the feeling that we might want to live here one day. We came to understand where we feel most at home, to see what stays with us, and to find new perspective and inspiration.

We chose the south for a reason. It feels more real, less polished, less expected. Not untouched, but untouched in the right way. Rolling green hills and vineyards stretch towards the horizon and eventually meet the sea, not in dramatic cliffs, but in something softer, more accessible, more calm. The roads are quiet, barely any traffic, just long stretches of stillness.

We landed in Rome and rented a small red Fiat. It felt obvious, almost necessary, and quickly became part of everything.

Stop 1 (Southernmost Tuscany)

The southernmost part of Tuscany is where we start, and it feels right almost immediately. The roads are quiet, with barely any cars, and everything moves a little slower. Trees lean over the asphalt, soft pink blossoms line the edges, and white sheep move steadily across the hills.

It’s not something we had planned, but this part stays with us more than expected.

Stay

Casale Sterpeti

Casale Sterpeti sits in the middle of the landscape, just outside Magliano in Toscana, and from the moment we arrive, everything feels intentional without being too polished. Soft beige gravel, perfectly trimmed trees, and a garden that almost looks hand-drawn lead into rolling hills that don’t seem to end.

We’re welcomed by the owners themselves, who carry our bags and serve coffee with small homemade pastries while we check in. It feels personal, but never overwhelming. Our room sits in a separate building, spacious and calm, with a private terrace overlooking olive trees moving gently in the wind.

On our first day, the clouds break and we sit outside with a glass of wine, watching a farmer move slowly through the fields below. It doesn’t quite feel real, more like stepping into a scene than arriving somewhere new. The location feels exactly right, surrounded by nature, yet close to everything.

Monte Argentario

We take the car down to Monte Argentario, heading towards the fishing harbor where we find a small café and sit for a while, watching the boats, the people, the pace.

This part doesn’t feel like the classic Tuscany. It’s a peninsula, and the landscape shifts quickly, from rolling hills to something more rugged, almost tropical, with cliffs and deep blue water. It’s striking how much it changes over such a short distance.

At times it almost reminds us of somewhere like Mallorca, just in the landscape. Everything else is entirely Italian. The pace, the atmosphere, the feeling. Completely its own.

If you have time, it’s worth driving around the entire peninsula. It takes around 40 minutes, and the scenery keeps changing. Some of the best swimming spots are tucked away, reached by narrow paths.

Parking can be limited in high season, especially near popular beaches and viewpoints, so arriving early makes a difference.

Eat

Ristorante Sofia

In the evenings, we head back into Magliano in Toscana and find Ristorante Sofia, which almost looks closed from the outside, but inside it’s something completely different.

It’s run by a family. The father greets us at the door, the mother cooks, and the daughter serves.

We order a carafe of wine and their wild boar ragù pasta and end up staying longer than planned. It’s simple, but exactly right. The kind of place you almost don’t want to share.

Wine

Tenuta Il Quinto

Not far from the house, we find Tenuta Il Quinto and decide to stop by without planning anything.

A few Land Rover Defenders are parked outside. The buildings sit low in the landscape, older Tuscan stone next to more modern structures built from the same material. Sharper lines, large glass panels, but everything blends in, nothing stands out too much.

We’re welcomed by Alfredo, who happens to have some time and asks if we’d like to do a tasting.

What starts as a tasting turns into something more personal, with cheeses, charcuterie, and wines that keep arriving. It becomes less about structure and more about sharing.

One of those stops you didn’t plan, but end up remembering the most.

Most vineyards in the area require booking ahead, especially during peak season. This time, we just stopped by, and it worked.

Stop 2 (Mount Amiata & Val d’Orcia)

As we head inland towards Piancastagnaio, the landscape shifts completely. The open views disappear, replaced by forest. It feels further away, quieter, and colder.

At times it almost feels like the Alps. Not what you expect from Tuscany.

Spring hasn’t reached this part yet. It’s not the Tuscany you imagine, but it stays with you in a different way.

Stay

Convento San Bartolomeo

Convento San Bartolomeo is an old monastery set high up on the slopes of Mount Amiata, passed down through generations and still run by the same family, who live here themselves.

Nothing feels replaced. Everything has been kept as it was, just carefully maintained. Thick stone walls, long corridors, and a stillness that feels almost physical.

The key to our room is oversized and heavy, fitting into old wooden doors with large metal locks.

Dinner is served each evening, no fixed menu, just what’s being made that day. Simple, honest food, some of the best we’ve had.

Time moves differently here.

Bagni San Filippo

From here, we visit Bagni San Filippo, hidden deep in the forest. Natural thermal waters flow through white mineral formations, creating something that feels almost unreal.

There’s no formal setup here, so you park nearby and walk the last part. It’s free to visit, but the paths can be uneven, so proper shoes help.

Stay

Casa Newton

On the way south, we stop at Casa Newton, near Pienza, between Montalcino and Montepulciano.

It’s not open like a regular hotel, but we’re given a private tour and instantly know we’ll come back.

Everything feels considered. The colors, the materials, the way it sits in the landscape. The pool is placed right at the edge, overlooking the hills.

Five star, Michelin Key, high level everything, but still calm. Never stiff.

Eat

Ortus by Fondo

Next to the house, we stop for lunch at Ortus by Fondo, where everything is built around their own produce.

We had wine and lunch, and ended up in their garden with coffee and dessert.

We drink wine from Fabbrica Pienza, which is also worth a visit on its own. Reservations are recommended, especially if you want a table with a view.

Pienza

On the way back, we stop in Pienza. A bit more movement, a bit more life.

We find a small backstreet bar called Prosti and have a craft beer, the first of the trip. And everywhere, gelato.

Stop 3 (Coast & countryside)

After a few days in the mountains, we head back down towards the coast. Tuscany feels big, but at the same time, everything is close.

Rocchette Beach

We stop at Rocchette Beach, where long stretches of sand meet clear blue water. We settle in for a seafood lunch, take our time, and then walk along the rocks until we find a small, quiet spot of our own.

In summer, this area gets busy, especially during weekends, so arriving earlier in the day is a good idea if you want a more relaxed experience.

Stay

Pieve di Caminino Farm

Our final stay is Pieve di Caminino Farm, hidden in the countryside near Roccastrada.

A place that almost doesn’t feel real. Olive groves, open land, old stone houses scattered across the landscape. Everything is run by the same family, and you can feel it in the way nothing is overdone, but everything has presence.

The estate stretches out for over 200 hectares, and when we arrive, the owner meets us in a golf cart, one foot hanging off the side, lifting his hat as he greets us.

“You’re not afraid of dogs, right?” he asks. Then something that looks like a wolf walks up, half wolf, half husky, completely calm.

He drives us through the property, past fields and buildings, then into a large space he calls his museum. It feels more like a hall, almost like a church, filled with objects he’s collected over time.

He opens a bottle of champagne in the middle of the room and starts talking, his voice deep, using his whole body, arms moving as he speaks, filling the space without trying.

We walk around the estate with glasses in hand. Everything is slightly wild, but still intentional. There’s structure, but it doesn’t feel controlled.

This becomes one of the strongest parts of the trip. Raw, full of character, and hard to fully describe.

Cala Violina

From here, we visit Cala Violina. You park outside and walk about 2 km through nature before the beach opens up. White sand, clear water, no beach clubs, just nature.

During high season, you need to book parking in advance, as the number of visitors is limited per day.

Worth a stop

Pitigliano

Not far from here is Tuscany’s tufa region, home to towns like Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana, often considered some of the most beautiful in Italy.

We ended up in Pitigliano, a town carved directly into the rock. If you’re exploring this area, it’s worth planning a small route between the towns, as distances are short.